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There are few places in the world which bring
to my mind images as exotic, colorful and mysterious. So with great
excitement and not a little trepidation I stepped off a plane into
the city of Bangalore in India last fall, having been given an
amazing opportunity: an eight week working holiday showing my breed,
Cocker Spaniels, across the sub-continent of Asia. I was to handle
dogs for Amit Gowda of Amrolyn Kennels. Although primarily a breeder
of Great Danes, Amit is a budding American Cocker enthusiast.
Earlier this year he visited Michael Gadsby at Afterglow Kennels in
England, and didn’t leave until he made arrangements to purchase a
buff male, Ch. Afterglow Bugalugs, and a black and tan daughter of
last year’s top Cocker in the US “Douglas Fashion.” These were to be
the FIRST Cockers exhibited on the Indian show circuit, and the
beginnings of a small breeding program for Amit. I am not sure what
was harder for me to get my head around: that the country had never
seen a Cocker Spaniel or that India had an actual show circuit!
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Since this is a new breed by local standards
and with the amount of grooming involved in showing them, Amit began
to look for a foreign handler experienced in Cockers who would be
able to come to India and stay for the show season. The idea was to
get someone not only to show the dogs, but to train him and his
kennel staff how to properly care for and trim their coats; that’s
where I came in, and through Michael I heard of the propostion.
Never having traveled so far abroad, I was intrigued about the
chance to not just visit but actually experience life on that side
of the planet. I had recently left my job of nearly ten years
working for Cocker handlers Michael and Linda Pitts. It seemed like
perfect timing. In speaking to Amit through a series of emails and
phone calls I was assured everything I needed would be provided for.
I would be a guest in Amit’s home, and have a driver available
during the week if I wanted to venture around the city. The details
were quickly and easily finalized. As an American, obtaining a VISA
was very simple, and I was granted multiple entry for up to 6
months. When hearing of my plans, friends and family had mixed
reactions of equal parts “That’s incredible!” and “What the hell are
you thinking?” After some deliberation, I chose to take the road
less-traveled and a chance for adventure.
Called “The Garden City” and Asia’s “Silicon
Valley,” Bangalore is situated in the state of Karnataka in southern
India. It is recognized internationally as a rapidly growing center
of technology and industry, and many American companies have set up
bases of operation there. The last time you called network support
for your PC, chances are your call was diverted to one of the city’s
numerous high-rise call centers. The designer clothes you bought in
the mall may very well have been made in Bangalore; Tommy Hilfiger,
Banana Republic, and United Colours are just a few of the brands who
outsource the manufacturing of their clothing lines in the area. In
the past 6 years, the city has seen its population soar due in part
to this western influx and Bangalore’s year-round moderate climate.
Industry has added to the city’s diveristy, and its diversity to its
cultural offerings. Here you can find a wide range of fabulous
restaurants, spacious parks, modern theater, and prime shopping
destinations.
My flight from London was smooth sailing and
Amit was waiting for me at the airport when I arrived. The ride home
gave me my first taste of driving in India. It was eye-opening to
say the least! Apparently just about anything goes on the roads here
as long as you a) don’t hit anyone, b) don’t get hit by anyone, and
most importantly c) don’t hit the free-range cows wandering in and
out of traffic; they are considered sacred in Hinduism, and most
have full access to graze on garbage and patches of grass among the
city streets. Otherwise, it seemed like free-style driving with no
lanes. The streets were congested with compact cars, motorbikes, and
auto-rickshaws set to a symphony of blaring horns. Pedestrians
non-chalantly crossed the streets into the path of oncoming busses,
confident that the oncoming traffic would slow down just in time.
Women on motorcycles wore helmets and sarees, and weaved fearlessly
through the stop-and-go traffic with what seemed to be a sixth-sense
of just how close they could get without crashing. In time, I came
to realize that there actually was a method to all the madness, but
for the duration of my stay I opted to remain a spectator only.
Amit’s father, Ravi, is the owner of several
movie theaters in the area, including the Irvashi, a lavishly
constructed building which was designed by the architect responsible
for Sydney’s Opera House. Upon arriving at the Gowda home in
Bangalore’s JP Nagar district, he and his wife greeted us at the
ornate rosewood front door which depicted carvings of the family’s
house god, Ganesh.
Mrs. Gowda had prepared a traditional tandoori
meal, the first of many during my stay. With the demeanor of Indian
royalty in a flowing gown with her long black hair pulled back in a
gold clip, Anitha is the queen of her home and kitchen, and makes a
mean naan bread. She’s an amazing chef actually, and can make
hundreds of Indian dishes from memory. The family used to employ a
chef but everyone preferred mom’s cooking. A couple of times each
week she visits the local farmer’s market to buy fresh,
locally-grown produce, meats and buffalo milk. It seems that India
has been shopping organically for ages. I could sense right away
that the food would be a highlight of the trip and I was not
disappointed.
The next day we took a short drive outside of
the city to take a tour and meet the dogs in Amit’s kennel. Gated
and completely walled, his facilities were amazing and a great deal
of time and thought had gone into their construction. Everything
needed to keep dogs fit and healthy was there, from spacious runs to
an indoor training arena, and a doggie swimming pool; and even a
veterinarian table with complete surgical equipment in case a
c-section needed to be performed. The scale of the place was in
keeping with the fact that Amit is a Dane breeder...large. A group
of ten or so kennel staff live on the grounds and see to it that
everything is neat and tidy and that the dogs are comfortable when
Amit is away. Needless to say, I was impressed.
After watching the dogs run in the paddock, I
decided we would concentrate on the buff male, “Bugsy,” at the first
weekend’s show. He was the most mature and ready for the ring of the
two Cockers.
Dog shows in India date back to the early 1900s
and are held under the authority of The Kennel Club of India. Headed
by Chairman Mr. S. Pathy, the KCI awards Challenge Certificates in
dogs and bitches for each of its recognized breeds, much like the
system in place in the UK. Due to extremes of weather and lack of
indoor venues, India has a show season of 4 to 5 months held during
its winter (November until March.) There are shows virtually every
weekend and I was suprised to find out that some weekends had as
many as three choices of where to enter. Show entries average 500 or
less, and the working breeds dominate in numbers. Dobermans, Great
Danes, GSDs, and Boxers consistently make up the highest breed
entries. Labradors are also immensely popular. I attended only the
first half of the season, and our schedule took us to the cities of
Hyderabad (twice), Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), Chennai (formerly
Madras), as well as an FCI show in Bangkok.
We were scheduled to leave for our first show
the following morning. Our flight to the city of Hyderabad was only
an hour long, but to drive there could easily have taken 10 or more
due to poor roads and traffic congestion. The Andhra Pradesh Kennel
Club was founded in 1945, and each year it hosts four all breed
events. The venue was outdoors, as are all the shows there. Around
300 dogs were judged in two giant 60’x60’ rings (per KCI rules), by
two judges, Mrs. Leela Ratnam of India and Mrs. Betty Steptovich of
Australia. Each ‘ring’ was considered a show, with a single judge
judging each breed, group and best. This way of doing things made
for long days. Most shows don’t conclude Best until nearly 9 pm.
Around the perimeter of the rings was a long line of tents which
were rented out by exhibitors for shade and grooming space, similar
to the stabling areas seen at horse shows. Without any electrical
hook-ups available on the showgrounds, I bathed Bugsy in the room
early that morning and hoped I would be able to keep him clean
throughout the long day. It was an unusual concept after years of
showing Cockers in the US where we are able to spray and blow dry
the coats whenever needed. My other big concern was the weather, but
despite a climbing temperature throughout the afternoon, it was cool
inside the tent. A clip-on crate fan and a steady breeze kept the
air circulating and “Bugsy” comfortable.
Ring procedure was basically the same as at our
shows in America and elsewhere. As the only American Cocker, our
breed judging was a quick in-and-out. It did count for a Challenge
Certificate nonetheless. Then, almost immediately, we were back in
for Gundog group competition and won first in that ring, and later,
in the other ring as well. Around 8 pm the judging of Best in Show
began, one judge’s ring at a time. This is where our systems differ
the greatest. Group first through third are called in by group order
and lined up according to placing. From the 21 dogs in the ring,
only those still undefeated are able to win Best. After that Reserve
Best all the way to 8th BIS is chosen from any of the dogs left.
Each dog was checked in by the stewards, and the judge did a quick
exam of each, usually doing a down-and-back as well. Then the scores
and notes were written and all the dogs were excused from the ring.
The same procedure took place again immediately following, now under
the day’s second judge. At the end of tabulating final points, the
judge took a microphone and thanked the club, exhibtors, and so on.
Then, in reverse order, each dog was called to the front, in reverse
order from 8th up to 1st Best in Show. If that sounds confusing, you
are correct. Not only did it take quite a while to get the dogs in
the ring and organized, but keeping them standing for that long was
very tiring. To make things more interesting, random spectators and
pushy photographers frequently entered the ring during judging to
snap close-up pics of dogs in line! Once a group of spectators
became so loud in their cheering for a certain Pomeranian that
policemen entered the ring and forced them back.
When the results were finally called out that
night around nine o’clock, we were excited to learn we’d been
awarded 1st Best in both rings! There was also the award given for
Best Indian-bred, and it was obviously a proud and sentimental
victory for each winner judging by the reaction of the handlers and
crowd. I was skeptical about 8 BIS winners at a time, but I think
that it gives encouragement for those new to the shows to stick
around for the entire day and even have a shot at a higher
placement. In that respect, its not such a bad idea, and I think
that more newcomers in America could benefit from sticking around to
watch other breeds and group judging. There is always something to
learn, and it seems to me that you can’t fully grow as a breeder or
handler by watching your breed’s judging only and packing up to
leave.
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As I mentioned before, Cockers are considered
“new” in India, and at each show we were a source of great interest
from spectators and exhibitors alike. The sight of a Cocker in full
coat caused a frenzy wherever we went on the grounds. All day long
large crowds of people wanted to pose for a picture, and snap a shot
of him on their cell phone cameras. Children shouted “Uncle! Uncle!
What’s his name?” and “What dog is that, Boss?” The local news
wanted interviews and a photo session. And our new “fans” were
always there to cheer us on each time we entered the ring. It was
chaotic at times, especially when we wanted him to get some rest in
his crate. I thought it was a tribute to the breed and his great
character that “Bugsy” not only withstood the poking and prodding
but loved every minute.
With this weekend under my belt, I was able to
get an idea about what to expect from the rest of the show circuit
as far as routine. Many of the shows had Australian, Canadian and
American judges on the panels. At Bangalore Canine Club, George
Murray from the US did working breeds and a Doberman specialty. He
awarded the latter to a bitch bred in India, and gave an impromptu
handling clinic in the ring following judging. Neither went
unappreciated by the locals. I found that having the chance to talk
to other Westerners on the weekends was something that I really
looked forward to. I met a British couple at one show who are living
in Sri Lanka for work. They are owners of a Standard Poodle and try
to get to as many of the Indian shows as they can. One day, while in
line for a drink, I heard a distinctly American accent, and found it
belonged to a blonde woman with a Saluki bitch. I introduced myself
and asked her where she was from, and it turned out that she was
from Asheville, North Carolina. “I have a house there still, but I
live in India full-time now,” she said.
“So was it work that brought you here?” I
thought it was a reasonable assumption.
“No, not at all, honey!” she replied. “My
spiritual master led me here to find my destiny. Have you heard of
Sai Baba?” Later, as she walked away, I wondered if her guru advised
her on which shows to enter.
Each trip began with an early flight the
morning before the show, and a return on the following Monday. Due
to the late finish each Sunday, I wondered how difficult it must be
for those who drive and have to set off for a long journey home so
late at night. But just like our dog community at home, there is a
passion for dogs here that keeps the breeders, owners, and handlers
coming back each week despite the difficulties. India is on the
verge of explosion in the dog game. This year alone over 300 show
dogs were imported there from several countries. Many of the group
winners were imports, and I wasn’t the only handler “imported” for
the season. Several people I met have been to Westminster and
Crufts, as well as World Shows in Europe and the Australian Royals.
Of the kennels I visited, most were good by US
standards, and a couple were amazing. And many simply keep their
dogs in the house. I was pleased to find that the dogs were treated
with the same care and affection they receive from us at home. A big
obstacle breeders face is the fact that so many breeds are few in
number and a large percentage not represented at all. Starting a
breeding program without importing a dog or two can be difficult
with no selection of stud dogs in the country. A few guys had sent
bitches to be mated in the US and Australia. Some have purchased and
brought bitches into India in whelp, but many breeders abroad are
understandably skeptical to get involved in such arrangements.
However, the Indian breeders I met were as passionate about breeding
great dogs as their fellow countrymen are about playing great
cricket, and I suspect that as time goes by we will see India become
recognized as a world-player in this international sport and
Indian-bred dogs popping up at our shows.
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The weeks flew by and suddenly I was back at
Hindustan Airport for a final trip, but this one was to London.
Looking back at when I began this journey, I was apprehensive about
diving headfirst into a new culture, but it was nothing more than
fear of the unknown. I was a clean slate when I arrived two months
earlier, and now my mind was flooded with thoughts, emotions, and
recollections playing in a stream of conciousness as I sat waiting
for my plane and eating a chicken tikka sandwich. Although I was
looking forward to being reunited with friends and family, I was
suprised at the mixed emotions I felt about leaving what had been
home for the past eight weeks. The dog show aspect of the trip had
been a success: I left with Bugsy being top dog all breeds. It was
the time I spent outside of the show ring that I would remember
most. India is a place that gets under your skin and leaves an
impression that you can’t forget. The sights and sounds and smells
are never dull. I am certain I will always carry a tiny part of this
amazing land with me.
My hosts could not have been more kind and
generous. Ravi and Anitha Gowda, along with Amit and his brother,
Adit, went out of their way to make my trip enjoyable. They always
saw to it that I was having a good time. I met so many great people
at the shows, and the Indian breeders and handlers were really kind
to me and supportive of the new breed in their rings. Many of them
read the dog papers from around the world and know what is going on
in our rings at home. After a show one night, a group of ten of us
went out for a late dinner. Actually it was not late by Indian
standards; 11:00 pm is a perfectly respectable hour. Most of the
guys were speaking Kannada, the local language. Even though I didn’t
always know exactly what was being said, I could make out that they
were reliving the day’s show, celebrating wins, and gossiping. It
suddenly occurred to me that I had been at this same dinner table a
million times prior, in different restaurants, in different
countries, with different characters. It made me realize how small
the world really is, and how much we in the dog game have in common
regardless of what side of the world we live on.
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